Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
