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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.